It is one of the most fascinating places in the Algarve and it has almost certainly been inhabited for the last 4,000 years. The picture-postcard bridge that crosses the River Gilão in the center of town is a perfect vantage point to admire the ornate 16th century houses and neat little cafés that line the river’s banks. The old Municipal Market situated on the quayside has recently been transformed into an exclusive arcade of shops and eating establishments, some with views across the river. In the clear water, shoals of shining fish flash by and at low tide when the river almost empties, locals can be seen digging for clams, a popular gastronomic indulgence often eaten in a stew with pork.

The old walled city of Tavira, situated on the hill is a treasure trove of architectural interest, with a great deal of excavation still taking place. The period of Moorish domination of the Algarve is well represented since they were rulers here for 500 years. It is an entirely captivating experience to thread a route through narrow cobbled streets, remembering that this was an important Moorish citadel. Once they were expelled it was common throughout the whole of Portugal for Islamic mosques to be converted into churches, which were then renamed Igreja Santa Maria. There is a fine example of such a church in the center of the old city.